A New England Traveler’s Guide to São Miguel, Azores, Portugal

São Miguel’s verdant Ponta do Sossego viewpoint looks like the Road to Oz. / Francesco Riccardo Iacomino / Getty Images

You could call New England and Portugal cousins, thanks to more than a century of migration here from the Atlantic nation. Though visit São Miguel, the largest of the nine islands that make up the Azores archipelago—an autonomous region of Portugal about 1,000 miles west of the country’s mainland—and it’s a wonder how anyone could tear themselves away. Driving from one end of the island to the other along hydrangea-bordered roads might take less than two hours, but its tiny size holds a wealth of treasures, from stunning Gothic churches to black volcanic beaches to the freshest seafood. Here, a relaxed pace begs you to slow down and savor this slice of paradise.

The 18th-century archways of the Portas da Cidade and the Igreja Matrix de São Sebastião church in Ponta Delgada. / Juergen Sack / Getty Images

PLAY

Even travelers on shorter stays should consider two launch pads for exploration: the village of Furnas and Ponta Delgada, the island’s singular city and the capital of the Azores. Start your trip slow in Furnas, where you can relax with soaks in the geothermal pools at Parque Terra Nostra, then explore the lush botanical gardens. The Caldeiras das Furnas park is your chance to wander an almost alien landscape filled with bubbling fumaroles, or volcanic vents. Portugal’s love affair with tea, meanwhile, traces its origins to missionary trips to China and Japan in the 16th century, and you can steep in history with a tour of the shrub-swathed grounds of the Gorreana Tea Factory.

About 45 minutes west, Ponta Delgada is awash in textures, from the weathered beauty of painted tiles to the mosaic-clad sidewalks (the hiking shoes you schlepped to Furnas will suit you well on those uneven surfaces). Wander the waterfront Infante Dom Henrique Avenue, with its stately façades, to the ornate 18th-century archways of the Portas da Cidade in the city square. Beyond the white walls of the Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião church hides a serene interior overflowing with gilded flourishes; dating to the 16th century, it’s a testament to the nation’s Catholic history. And no trip is complete without hitting the water. Book a fishing trip from the city’s harbor with Trilhos da Natureza. Even if you don’t catch anything, you’re likely to see whale spouts, and with a little luck, some friendly dolphins.

São Miguel’s gorgeous scenery includes a twin lake located in the crater of a dormant volcano. / Courtesy of Octant Hotels

SHOP

It’s tempting to bring a spare suitcase to fill just with specialty foods procured from Ponta Delgada. Explore the Mercado da Graça farmers’ market for local produce (try the mini bananas) and be sure to hit up the market’s cheese shop, O Rei dos Queijos, to sample aged São Jorge cheese and other artisanal treats like biscuits and preserves. Stock up on spicy sardines and smoked mussels at Comur, a tinned-fish shop so beautiful you’d mistake it for a jewelry store, by the historic city gates.

The hotel’s traditional Portuguese cozido. / Courtesy of Octant Hotels

EAT

With the ocean everywhere you look, you’ll want to come hungry for seafood. At the homey and gorgeous Restaurant Ponta do Garajau in Ribeira Quente, a quick jaunt from Furnas, standouts include the fried mackerel (called chicharros) with boiled potatoes. Savor the likes of risotto with limpets and lemon butter at BocAberta, by the sea in Lagoa. Chef Paulo Leite dishes out five-star fare at À Terra, atop the Octant Ponta Delgada hotel; saving room for the chocolate “cigar” with smoked meringue is a must. Meanwhile, in Furnas, you’ll find the island’s most authentic cuisine: Here, you can eat a traditional meat-and-vegetable stew called cozido, cooked underground in a fumarole, at Restaurante Tony’s.

The indoor pool at Octant Furnas. / Courtesy of Octant Hotels

STAY

Some hotels have spas. Octant Furnas, the 55-room luxury retreat in the hotbed of the island’s volcanic activity, feels like a spa in and of itself. Wander in your bathrobe (you won’t be the only one) through the wood-and-stone-infused spaces to indoor and outdoor geothermal pools or hit up the spa for a bamboo or volcanic basalt massage. The experience manager can direct you to the mineral-rich geothermal waters that are a quick walk away and help book hiking and biking excursions. For the city portion of your stay, sophisticated sister spot Octant Ponta Delgada brings the glam. Right on the edge of the Atlantic, the 123 rooms and suites boast ocean views yet are a 15-minute walk to the city center—that is, if you can tear yourself away from the rooftop’s bustling bar and panoramic pool first.

GETTING THERE

Azores Airlines runs nonstop flights multiple days a week from Logan to Ponta Delgada Airport all year long.